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Arrival of Soma Laboratory Lyra-8

Nov23
by H. B. Coffin on November 23, 2019 at 10:40 am
Posted In: Harlequin Djinn, Music Hardware

https://www.instagram.com/p/B5NvvnFnQ5s/

Jasmine stitch crochet dust cover for Tiptop Audio Mantis Eurorack case

Nov22
by H. B. Coffin on November 22, 2019 at 6:50 am
Posted In: Crochet, Eurorack

https://www.instagram.com/p/B5Kv6JRH0sm/

Jasmine stitch crochet dust cover for Elektron Digitakt

Nov18
by H. B. Coffin on November 18, 2019 at 3:05 pm
Posted In: Crochet, Music Hardware

https://www.instagram.com/p/B5BWN-Zn2vI/

Case of all black Eurorack modules is coming along

Nov09
by H. B. Coffin on November 9, 2019 at 3:35 pm
Posted In: Eurorack, Harlequin Djinn

https://www.instagram.com/p/B4qOuG4n7wM/

Crochet keyboard dust cover pattern

Nov09
by H. B. Coffin on November 9, 2019 at 7:45 am
Posted In: Crochet, Music Hardware

https://www.instagram.com/p/B4iSgpWHDAP/

After I received a request, I decided to go ahead and transcribe the pattern I used to make the dust cover for my Prophet ’08. This is my first time writing such a guide, so my apologies for any lack of clarity. If you’ve come across this pattern and have any questions, feel free to contact me HERE and I’ll do my best to help.

I’ve been doing crochet for some time now, so directions like these are clear to me, but I am aware they can be a bit confusing or daunting to beginners. Whenever I’ve run into trouble in the past, or been unsure of where to stick my hook, finding a good video tutorial on how to perform a given technique has helped a lot. Some people are better at communicating how to approach the craft, and you may better process the way one person communicates over another, so if something isn’t made clear by an instructor, try watching someone else.

Now, onto the pattern.

I used 3 skeins of medium (worsted) weight yarn and worked with a 6mm hook. The pattern could easily be modified to accommodate different size keyboards by increasing or decreasing the starting chain by multiples of 6 plus 1. The fit will depend on a combination of factors—yarn weight/blend, hook size, working tension. I used pretty stretchy yarn that allowed for a nice snug cover. Had I used an inflexible material it may have been too tight. I’d definitely go for something fairly pliant for a more form fitting cover, just be careful not to overshoot your dimensions. Note that adding or subtracting your starting chain by a multiple of 6 would increase or decrease the amount of repeats required in rows 2-5 of your basket weave pattern (e.g. a starting chain of 43 would require you repeat the direction 6 times instead of 7).

Any instructions between two asterisks are repeated for the amount of times noted. The abbreviations I used are as follows:

bpdc = back post double crochet
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
fpdc = front post double crochet
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch

Basket Weave Pattern

Row 1…
ch 49, sk 3 ch, *dc in next ch*, repeat from * to end, ch 2, turn

Rows 2 and 3…
sk 1 dc, *(1 fpdc) 3 times, (1 bpdc) 3 times*, repeat from * 7 times, (1 fpdc) 3 times, dc in top of turning ch, ch 2, turn

Rows 4 and 5…
sk 1 dc, *(1 bpdc) 3 times, (1 fpdc) 3 times*, repeat from * 7 times, (1 bpdc) 3 times, dc in top of turning ch, ch 2, turn

repeat from row 2 a total of 23 times or until the required length is reached

work 1 row of sc stitches around the entire perimeter (1 sc around each ch 2 at the end of each row), sl st to end the round

fasten off**

**instead of fastening off, you may continue to work in rounds (see options noted in the next step)

Double Crochet Rounds

When fastening off, rejoin your yarn starting anywhere along the edging you created with sc stitches. You’ll be working dc stitches around the post of each sc stitch. Make sure the loops of the stitches face out from where you want to be the top of your cover. This is simply an aesthetic choice. The final appearance may be altered by doing the opposite, by working into the front or back loops only, or as you would normally when working in rounds. For beginners, I would recommend the latter. In that case, you would not need to fasten off and rejoin your yarn; simply continue working in rounds.

Row 1 (if fastening off to rejoin)…
sc around post of first sc stitch, ch 2, *dc around post of next sc stitch*, repeat from * to end, sl st in top of ch 2

Row 1 (if continuing to work in rounds starting from sc edging)…
ch 2, *dc in next stitch*, repeat from * to end, sl st in top of ch 2

Row 2-4…
ch 2, *dc in next stitch*, repeat from * to end, sl st in top of ch 2

fasten off

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